Wine 101: Spain: Northern & Central Regions

Spain has a long history of producing fine wines, particularly the red wines of Rioja. Surprisingly, however, this famous name is just one small region among many, some of which produce equally good wines. Some of these regions are huge, and account for the fact that Spain has the largest area of land dedicated to viticulture of any country in the world.

Spain has a similar classification system to France and Italy, with all classified wine regions regulated under the Denominación de Origen (DO) system. Red wines are often labeled as Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva. In Rioja and the Ribera del Duero, Crianza wines are two years old, with at least twelve months spent in cask (elsewhere the oak aging may legally be restricted to just six months). Reservas are three years old (at least one year in cask), Gran Reservas five years old (two in cask, three in bottle).

Northern Spain

In Galacia, the most northwestern part of Spain, Rias Baixas can be very drinkable. The wines are made from the Albariño grape, and many are cold-fermented to maintain freshness, the antithesis of old white Rioja.

Further to the east, and just a little south, is Rueda. The reputation of this DO once rested on the sherry-like wines it produced, but it is now the home of some more examples of drinkable Spanish white, this time made from the Verdejo grape.

Coming further across is the Ribera del Duero, a region of vineyards situated around the Duero river, which, as it flows west through Portugal, becomes the Douro, home to the vineyards that give rise to Port. Despite Rioja's reputation, it is in fact the Ribera del Duero that is home to Spain's most expensive wine, produced by Vega Sicilia. There are some splendid wines to be had in this region, based on a mixture of international (Cabernet Sauvignon) and indigenous (Tempranillo) grapes.

Further east, and back to the north a little, is Rioja. The epitome of fine red Spanish wine for generations, Rioja can still be superb. Styles vary, from easy drinking Crianzas and some Reservas, to the Reservas and Gran Reservas of the top estates which may cellar and improve for decades. The grape of note is the Tempranillo, although there are some plantings of lesser grapes, including Garnacha Tinta (known as Grenache in France). Rioja is divided up into three regions, by far the most important of which is the Rioja Alta (which is also the name of one of the top estates). Slightly to the east are Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja, the former producing some drinkable wines, the latter less so.

It is worth noting that much of Rioja's character depends on the long aging in American oak, with Gran Reservas having the longest contact (as explained above) and also the best cellaring potential. For an alternative to Rioja, just to the northeast is Navarra, often cited as an up and coming rival.

Moving across to the Mediterranean coast there are a number of DO regions, such as Priorato and Somontano, which for many years produced nothing of great interest. Quite recently, however, Priorato has been making waves, with big, age-worthy and exciting wines from the likes of Clos Mogador and Clos Erasmus. Penedès is also worth a mention, not least because it is home to one of Spain's most well known wine makers, Torres. This company, led by Migual Torres, produces a vast array of styles using a number of indigenous and international grapes, from sparkling Cava through to Gran Reserva reds. They also have related outposts in Chile (Migual Torres) and California (Marimar Torres).

Central Spain

Just one region dominates central Spain, and that is La Mancha. This is a vast million acre DO, which relies on Airén for its whites, and Cencibel (another name for Tempranillo, just to confuse you) and Garnacha Tinta (Grenache), among others, for its reds.

Just to the south of La Mancha is Valdepeñas, a red wine region, much less important than Rioja or the Ribera del Duero, which produces a few drinkable wines. Some of the best producers are using oak-aging to add more appeal to their wines. Good value drinking can be found here, from one or two producers. Further to the east are the DOs of Almansa, Valencia, Alicante, Jumilla, Yecla and Utiel-Requena. There are some good value wines to be found here, particularly with the efforts of Bodegas Castaño.